We stumbled out of bed to meet up in the hotel lobby by 5:45. It was totally dark, but also sparsely populated as we worked our way through the streets of Glasgow towards the M8, which would to take us to the road to the ferry. It took about 2 1/2 hours to drive out to the ferry at Kennecraig. As the light came up, the scenery got better and better. One particularly interesting looking village we passed through was Invernary. Unfortunately we could not risk stopping as we knew we had to get to the ferry in time. We had thought
Kennecraig would also be a village we could walk around and maybe find something to eat while waiting for the ferry. Unfortunately, it is just a ferry dock out in the middle of nowhere.
Our ride to Islay
At last the ferry approached down the loch and we stood and discussed amongst ourselves how it was going to take on the cars and lorries as it maneuvered towards the dock. Then we saw the bow begin to open upwards to reveal a single-wide opening and the ferry was soon unloading a few cars followed by a line of lorries and heavy machinery. Soon we were waved on and directed in between some other large lorries. Since we could not return to our cars for the duration of the trip, we had to try and take everything needed for the ride. Computers, cameras, books, jackets- all the necessities for a 2 and a quarter hour ferry ride. Sheesh, you’d think we were embarking for a week!
The lorries emerge
We headed to the cafeteria as soon as we boarded and lined up behind all the lorry drivers, most of who were ordering the ubiquitous Full Scottish Breakfast. We all refueled and settled in for the picturesque ride out to our prime destination of the trip- the island of Islay, where the most peaty single malt scotches are made. But don’t call it scotch around here. Here it is called whisky, and if it’s single malt you’re after (which we are), then it is simply malt.
alarming car
The scenery was beautiful but when we went out on deck and look down at the car, we could see the flashers going and the hear the sound of the car alarm. You can’t return to your car, so we checked with staff but they were totally unconcerned and said, ah, it will turn off eventually. I went back out to check on it and could hear at least one other alarm going off. What a racket! The ride got rougher as we got in more exposed waters, too, so I’m sure it’s a very noisy ride if you’re working the car deck.
At our destination- Laphroaig
As we finally approached the island, we saw our destinations gleaming in white on the shore. Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are all situated just outside Port Ellen, where we were to dock. It was very exciting to see them after so many months of anticipation!
There were not very many cars on the ferry, but as we pulled into the first distillery, Laphroaig, we were followed by several other cars. It is clearly about the only thing visitors to the island do. We visited all three distilleries, but only took the tour at Laphroaig. The tour was well worth it. Our guide, Stevie, was a character and gave a highly informative and entertaining description of the entire process as we went from building to building following the entire process. At Laphroaig, this includes the digging of the peat, smoking it, drying the barley, fermentation, and distillation. And a bunch of steps in between, of course. We have many pictures, which we will try and include.
And at the end, the final reward, a dram of malt to taste. It was truly a wonderful experience.
Bowmore
On to find our lodgings for the night, Bowmore Hotel. Or was it Bowmore House? Going by Tami’s memory, which is perhaps not always a good idea, we tracked down the Bowmore Hotel after driving around a bit, then resorting to asking at the Visitor Centre. Even found parking right out front. Hmm, looked not at all as it looked in the pictures. Pull out the folder of trip info and realized the it was actually the Bowmore House we were due at. At least we had seen that on our wanderings through town so we drove right up and discovered what a delightful place it is. It overlooks the water and is a wonderful B&B. Andrew, the innkeeper, met us with a dram of an exquisite Bowmore malt and we had a fun discussion about the town, restaurants, and local distilleries. He then booked us for a table at our choice of restaurant and showed us to our rooms. We did ask him where we should park since we were parked across the street in a space marked with a 30 minute limit. He said don’t worry, Islay doesn’t even have a traffic warden, so you’re fine! All we can say is wow, what a great place to stay. We have large, comfortable well-appointed rooms that have wonderful views.
After a short stop in the local supermarket to check out, well, food, we headed to a delicious dinner and stopped in the local whisky shop before heading back to our rooms. And what did we find but TUCs! Tami looked for them in Glasgow and found none, but here they are on Islay! So TUCs in hand we headed back to the room where Tami also found a UEFA football (soccer) game on the TV and Mike set up to blog. A truly successful day.
Well, until we started blogging… We are having a few technical issues, which is why the second post was so bereft of pictures. We hope to sort it soon as we have LOTS more pictures to share!
Peggy and Don