Along the shore

At last! We gave our poor legs a break today. Mike and Tami did compare their various cuts, scrapes, bruises, and gouges from five days of running pedals and shifters into their legs. Keenan’s legs seemed to be unmarred.

After a good lazy start to the morning we walked down to catch one of the foot ferries that run up and down False Creek. With a day pass in hand, we first stopped at Granville Island and checked out the public market and various art galleries. The last time Keenan was there he was pretty little. We remembered how hard it was to pry him out of the toy store. Now he actually enjoys going to art galleries as much as we do. Who’d a thunk it?

We hopped aboard another ferry to check out the Vancouver Maritime Museum which features a retired RCMP arctic exploration and support ship, the St. Roch. It was the first ship to complete the Northwest Passage in a west to east direction (1940-1942) and the first ship to circumnavigate North America. Very fun to climb around the ship and see how the crew had to live for months and years at a time.

St. Roch

More Roch

The museum also had an excellent exhibit on the history of Japanese-Canadian fishermen in BC, including their treatment during WWII. Interesting to see the parallels between the US and Canada in how the Japanese were treated.

After all that walking we needed more boat time so we took another ferry all the way to the end of False Creek, checked out the beer, calamari, and fried pickles (all excellent), and caught another ferry back. This ferry was being run by a skipper-in-training. She seemed to be taking the wheel for the first time and she was actually doing pretty well, but after hearing her being coached through the process for several stops, I think we all felt ready to give it a try ourselves. They didn’t offer, though.

While taking the foot ferry we got to see some members of the local paddling club in various types of boats

We had to hoof it back along the shore again to return to our hotel so of course we worked up another appetite. Tonight’s dining selection was a small Chinese noodle house with fresh hand pulled noodles, Legendary Noodle. We each had a different preparation and variant of the noodles, including black bean pork and mushroom, chicken with peanut, and pork garlic chili sauce noodles. Yum yum yum. Since we head home tomorrow, we also felt we had to finish with some ice cream so we found a slab ice creamery and now we have the sustenance needed to face packing tonight so we are ready for a 5 am departure tomorrow.

No, we did not take THAT route out of town!

White Rock is a town that sits at the bottom of many hills. The only way out of there is uphill and the only variables are how steep and how high. We chose the route that climbed a fair bit, but at a steady gradual slope. When you ride bikes you learn that it is slope that really counts. You can climb the Rockies if you have a mild gradient, but you can be off and pushing if a one block climb is too steep!

We were also looking for a quick breakfast on the way out of town. Mike had promised a McDonald’s (egg McMuffins are good road food), but everyone was starting to wonder when we were near the edge of town and still had not found it. Finally it appeared, well past the rest of the business areas.

Our bikes pretty much took up the whole bike rack our front, so when another biker rode up, he took one look at the rack and just leaned his bike against the window. It happened that we were sitting on the other side of that window, so when he saw us, he raised his bike in greeting. Soon he appeared at our table side to talk bikes. And talk he did! He was an older gentleman (older meaning older than Mike and Tami) with a French accent, though we never got his name. He was very entertaining and launched right into a series of stories, first about his collection of bikes (he has one bike that is good for uphills and another that is good for downhills, but the problem is neither is great for both). Then he told us the times his wife got frustrated with his keeping his bike in the front entry and he came home to find it in a heap at the bottom of the basement stairs. He also told us about one friend who used to be a professional bike racer decades ago, and still does some amateur racing. He was visiting this friend one day and the friend took him down to see his bikes. He had a number of VERY high end bikes, but he had some complaint about each one. When asked which one he rides given the various complaints, he said, oh, I ride my wife’s bike.

After a while we realized the stories could go on all day, so we reluctantly excused ourselves as we had to get back on the road. Our friend did follow us outside to look over our bikes and offer a few last comments. McDonalds has never before been nearly so entertaining!

We then headed across the flatlands south of Vancouver, following a route carefully calculated to stay flat as long as possible. We had to ride on the side of a busy highway for a few miles, but that ended mercifully quickly. That led us to some nearly deserted farm roads and then several miles of well packed dirt trail. Mike had actually discovered that trail from seeing it out the window of the train on several previous trips. The trail was definitely one of the highlights of the day. We only wished it had been longer.

Given we were on less familiar ground, there were lots of map checks today

On the trail

After we finished the trail, we came to the first bridge of the day. It had a nice bikeway separated from the cars, but it was HIGH over the Fraser River. It was quite the grind up to the top, where we stopped for pictures because it was a lovely view, and then zoomed down the other side. Almost immediately, however, we were on to another bridge, as the first one had brought us to an island in the middle of the river, so we had to get off the island as well.

Resting at the top of the bridge

View from the bridge

The bike lane

By this time we were getting pooped, so when Mike spotted a couple picnic tables in a field, we pulled right in. Turned out it was a dog park. Since there was no one else around, it was the perfect place for the boys to water a little grass.

Tired dogs in the dog park

Leaving there, we got on the second wonderful section of the day’s ride, River Road along the south bank of the north arm of the Fraser (previously we had been crossing the south arm). Again it was a very quiet road with some great views, until it wasn’t (near the end it turned industrial with trucks).

River Road

A third bridge – this time the bikeway was slung off the side of a skytrain bridge – finally brought us into Vancouver proper. So far it had taken three bridges just to cross the Fraser! We still had to get up and over the ridge that is South Vancouver. Funny, it always seemed relatively flat driving into Vancouver, but on a bike you discover otherwise. It did take us, however, through a neighborhood of beautiful old homes, which actually made it the third great section of the ride. Except for Tami, though, as she was getting tired and hungry, which in turn makes her grumpy. Mike therefore started looking for food. This was difficult as we were riding on a residential street, but finally we came to a business street and Mike spotted a pub. Funny, but Tami’s grumpies went away as soon as she saw the menu, even before the food had actually arrived. It is all about anticipation!

From there we just had one more bridge to cross and then ride along the shore for a few minutes down to English Bay right by the south entrance to Stanley Park. We got checked into our hotel and then went out for cocktails to celebrate the end of our ride.

Near Stanley Park

That area of town, Denman Street, is full of small ethnic restaurants. We only had to go about a block to find a wonderful Malaysian place for dinner. After dinner we pretty much collapsed. What a day.

Malaysian dinner nearly done – we can never remember to take a picture BEFORE we eat, only after we start to slow down

Mike rockin the jersey

Today was the big day, we were cycling into another country! Out of Bellingham and heading north through more farm country, we had some nice miles of quiet back roads and a few miles of busy highway. Once again it was Tami who said it MUST be about time for a break, but the planned stop at a park was unfortunately not accessible from the road we were on, so that chocolate muffin had to be consumed  while sitting on the edge of a ditch by the side of the road.

Mike’s plotted route next took us to a “bike path” which turned out to be an old section of road owned by BP that is now gated off and open to pedestrians and bicyclists only. To get to it, you head down a road that says Dead End, but you keep going until you reach the gate. Through the gate, the two lane paved road continues for several miles through beautiful fields of tall grass surrounded by trees and hills. We saw one other cyclist and a couple walking a dog and child. So peaceful.

Abandoned road – what a wonderful place to ride

Tami taking another break

At the end of the road it drops right down to Birch Bay State Park so we got ANOTHER snack stop with a gorgeous view out to the Salish Sea and a real picnic bench to sit at. Leaving the park we had more beautiful waterside riding until we didn’t.

View from Birch Bay State Park

Tami stacking rocks – deep concentration!

Our next turn not only took us up a HILL but the hill had just been freshly covered with gravel and oil. Yuck! Okay, that was not fun but it did get better as we got away from too much traffic and no longer had cars spitting gravel at us. But at least it did lead us towards Blaine where we stopped for lunch. We did need to refuel for the grueling border crossing, after all. We had another delicious meal, including deep fried avocado. Yum!

Deep fried avocado

It was literally just a few blocks to the border crossing but finding the way for pedestrians and bicycles is challenging. After a few turn arounds and asking the park personnel, we found the skinny little path that took us down to the multi lane car entrance, which we had to cross to get to the bike path. Or at first the US grass that leads to the nice Canadian bike path that leads to the actual crossing. Mike can tell this story…. Mike: As I understand it, the Canadians could only build the path to the actual border point. They have tried to get the US to build a path to meet up with it, but so far no luck. It is very strange as the US has a path that comes to within about a 100 feet of the start of the Canadian path. Oh well.

We discovered that bikes get to jump the line! Our entrance was just one side of the nearest vehicle lane and the immigration officer just turns to his other window and beckons us forward, ahead of the next waiting car. They even let us in! Of course, then we had to find our way to the small road that led to the super secret path that Mike had discovered on Google Maps that allowed us to cross the river on a footbridge and voila! We were in White Rock! Our first night in Canada.

Once we got checked in, we went for a walk around White Rock. This is a very British style seaside resort town, complete with tons of Fish and Chip shops. We also popped into an ice cream shop that we discovered the last time we were here. Not only do they have some great flavors (like 7 Up Float with Skittles), but the very happy proprietor has a constant stream of Frank Sinatra songs playing, to which he sings along.

Waterfront walking path

Is this how White Rock got its name?

That’s a satisfied look!

After a bit more walking, we found a seafood restaurant for dinner. We all got stuffed.

Slimming down!

Ready for day two of our travels to Canada, we stopped at a favorite stop in Snohomish for breakfast, the Bakery at First and Union. Always a fun and popular stop on a bike. Must have seen at least a dozen other cyclists while we were there. They actually have bike racks in their courtyard, not just out on the street.

Powered up, we headed off down the Centennial Trail, one of our frequent ride destinations. It was strange to ride past the Trails End Taphouse, our favorite post-ride stop in Snohomish, and realize that we would not be turning around to finish there. Instead we were riding through to Arlington and beyond to Conroy and Mt Vernon.

We will confess, our legs all felt a bit like lead. None of us had gotten a great night of sleep and heading out felt tiring. Perhaps it was knowing that this would be our longest day. It felt good to stop just before Arlington at our favorite burger and fish and chips stop and take a good break. Yet more fuel!

Love the Junk Yard

He’s such an arrogant bastard

Wondered about the combination of pirate hat and safety vest – later figured out they were working the art walk

We also stopped in Arlington for their summer art walk but did not see much art, actually, so we pressed on. As we left the art walk a gentleman kindly pointed out that there was a bike trail just a block away. We thanked him and headed back to the trail.

We were able to cover 30 of our 45 miles today on bike trails and it was so pleasant on such a gorgeous day. We had a short stretch of a few miles on highway 9, but then  took a very scenic ride over a pass into the Skagit Valley where we were able to follow  quiet farm roads into Mt Vernon. Cows, corn, potatoes, mountains, and blue skies. Mike and Keenan did about 46.5 miles and Tami did 48 miles. Tami seems to be riding in a parallel universe where she daily puts in more miles than those other two. (M – Need to adjust the settings on her bike computer.)

Going over the pass

Skagit Valley

Mike was quite surprised, but pleased, that the pass over to the Skagit valley was much easier than he remembered. Funny how memory can play those tricks. He is, however, now suffering from a condition known as “baboon butt”. Nuff said. (No picture.)

We had to wait to hear from our airbnb host so what else could we do but stop at Skagit River Brewing for some brews and dinner. Since we got there around 4, we initially thought we might just have a few appetizers and come back downtown for dinner later. Then we looked up the hill at our destination and said “Nah, let’s have dinner now too!” Such a great stop sitting out on their outdoor deck. We are finally now showered, fed, and once again oh so tired. Tomorrow we tackle Chuckanut Drive and explore the wonders of Bellingham.

BEER!!

Keep clam

The before shot – I am sure we’ll be svelte by the time we finish

We hit the road at the not so bright and early hour of 9:30 am, after powering up with Mike’s breakfast sandwiches. The first thing we discovered is that carrying extra weight on your bike makes the hills higher and your speed slower. We were struggling to get our average speed UP to 10 mph!

Hitting 9 mph – more power Scotty!

The trail we followed out of town

And speaking of weight, Keenan confessed over lunch that he had seriously considered throwing in the 20+ pound dumbbell he likes to work out with in the evening. He didn’t because he did not feel like carrying it to work with him the day before (he came straight to our house after work). He claims he did not initially make the connection that if carrying it to work would be too much bother, carrying it to Canada might be worse.

Having no deadlines and only about 37 miles to cover, we took our time, stopping whenever Tami got hungry. She was NOT happy to discover at our first snack break that some of our bike snacks from the bike snack bag at home were tasting a bit old. Rancid peanuts in particular are not a pleasant surprise. She swore to restock at the first store she could find.

Stopping for snacks, but not good snacks

We did make a nice discovery for lunch in Everett. We spotted a new Hawaiian restaurant, and a guy on the sidewalk told it was really good, so we decided to look no further. It was even better than expected. Incredible chicken wings, spam musubi, fried noodles with kimchi, and miso ramen with shitakes soup all went down quickly.

Keenan contemplating the extra weight he could have packed

Our steeds at the hitching post

At lunch

While the first 27 miles had been mostly on bike path, the last 10 were on quiet farm roads to Snohomish.

The farm roads ran through a flood plain. Tami liked this horse next to an old house.

Our biggest hill of the day was riding up to our airbnb rental once we got here. We caught some quick showers – those felt really good! – before walking back down into town to window shop a bit and scout out a dinner location. On the way Keenan spotted a sign for SnoCo Crossfit, which he took for a place selling snow cones (he claimed the sign got torn off). We finally ended up a pub we had been to before. Mike got an apricot sour beer so he wouldn’t have to share.

We were not sure what these were for. I guess just a warning that the sidewalks might be dangerously unflat.

Stuffed, we waddled on back to the house and collapsed on the couch, at the late hour of 6:00 pm. Now just taking it easy and wondering how soon we can go to bed.

M here. Well, I did it. I talked Tami into joining Keenan and I on a bike ride to Vancouver. Not sure how I managed that, must have something to do with many years honing my persuasive skills in the courtroom. Now my job is to make SURE a good time is had by all, so that there can be a next time.

There is an annual bike ride called the RSVP, which stands for Ride from Seattle to Vancouver and Party. I have done it a few times. This year, however, we are doing the personal edition, slowing things down from two days to five. We leave this Saturday, July 8. By the way, note that you can zoom in on the map above, and even blow it up to full screen if you are really interested in our (approximate) route.

As part of the work to ensure a pleasant and non-whiney ride (nobody will have fun if I am whining) I have tried to plan the flattest possible route. Both Tami and I hate climbing. She has the better excuse, her knees. I just hate hauling my lard butt up any kind of hill. Keenan will probably charge ahead on the hills to get away from the panting and swearing.
I have also tried to plan overnight stops in interesting towns with good food and beer. Now I had better give Tami a chance to explain why she ever actually agreed to go on this.

T here. Hmm, why did I ever let Mike talk me into this? Well, a big part of the reason is because Mike dreams of traveling by bike and I want to try and make it happen. But geez, I sure don’t want him out there doing it alone! But I must also admit that it sounds like a great way to do some traveling as long as there aren’t too many hills and we don’t have to go too far each day. And we stop and eat frequently and find local beers because that is one sure way to keep ME from whining.

This is definitely a bit of a trial run. We did a three day trip a few years ago but did not have panniers and such back then. Now we get to see what it’s like to carry clothing and all the necessities for a week on our bikes with us, although we are not going to go all extreme and camp or anything radical like that! Mike has found us places to stay each night to try and ensure that I will actually do this again.

And why does Mike want to do this? When I asked him what he was looking forward to the most, he answered, “the food!”. Ah, that’s the Mike I know and love, my true soulmate.
We leave in three days and over the entire past long weekend Mike has been one busy bee getting bikes and gear and mapping all ready. It has involved multiple trips to various bike shops, hours in the basement with greasy fingers, and gathering piles of clothing, snack bars, lights, tools, and everything else imaginable to make this one fun bike trip. I watch in amusement, anticipation, and excitement as he prepares us for our expedition. I think he’s having fun!

Greasy fingers!

M here again. The process of planning the route has taken weeks, maybe even months. Not because I needed to, just because anticipation is half of the fun. We will be averaging maybe 35 miles per day, which we should be able to mostly accomplish by lunch time. Of course there will be some kind of food stops along the way, as Tami’s rule is 20 miles to the fill up.

Just in case there are times when no mid-ride food stops present themselves at critical times (you know what I mean), we also went through our collection of bike snacks to fill our personal stashes. Poor Keenan had to go last as we got to it first.

We will also be taking as many bike paths as possible, and back roads when there are no paths, in order to stay away from traffic (cars zooming by at high speed are NOT conducive to fun). The basic route is home to Snohomish, Snohomish to Mt. Vernon, Mt. Vernon to Bellingham, Bellingham to a White Rock BC, and White Rock to Vancouver. We will spend a day in Vancouver before taking the train back to Seattle, getting back in time to catch a Reign FC soccer game the next day!

We are probably way over packing. On a longer trip I expect we would quickly be mailing half of it back home after we learn what difference each additional pound actually makes. As noted, this is truly a trial run.

Mike’s

Tami’s

Keenan’s